AnglingSA

 Fisheries management professionals encourage live-release fishing because it works. Scientific studies of fresh and salt water species have conclusively shown that up to 95% of fish survive when released.

Only a small percentage of fish reach spawning age. These "brood" fish are survivors and pass on healthy physical traits and important survival instincts to their young. It is important to protect these larger fish.

Fisheries managers prefer to promote voluntary live-release as an effective management tool that increases fishing opportunities and benefits fish populations.

Conservation-minded anglers have been releasing fish for over 100 years.

Your decision to keep or release can have an important effect on future fish populations.

<b>What to Keep - What to Release</b>

KEEP the smaller fish of the species for the table. They are easier to clean and often tastier than bigger fish.

KEEP fish that have been damaged by hooking or appear unlikely to survive.

KEEP panfish or less popular fish. They are great eating, fun to catch on light tackle and are generally more abundant.

RELEASE spawning age fish. These are the larger fish of each species.

RELEASE trophy fish ... and still have your trophy. Take measurements and photos of your prize and bring them to your taxidermist. He will arrange to create a "replica" mount which will look exactly like your fish but last much longer than the traditional "skin" mount.

RELEASE all fish you do not intend to use
RELEASE all fish under the legal size limit or over your legal possession limit.

<b>How to Handle &amp; Release Fish</b>

Bring fish in quickly. Fish can become exhausted if they are on the line too long.

Unhook the fish while still in the water, wherever possible.

Use barbless hooks for easy removal. (Just pinch down the barb with a pair of pliers.)

Wet your hands before handling fish to minimize damage to their protective "slime" cover.

Do not squeeze a fish. Use needle-nose pliers for quick removal of the hook.

To prevent spinal injury to large fish, never lift them ONLY by the tail. If it is necessary to remove a large fish from the water, support them by placing one hand at the base of the tail and the other hand gently under the belly.

Never place your fingers in the gills of a fish you intend to release.

Never keep fish on a stringer if you intend to release them.

What is angling? 

 What is angling?

• Method of fishing by means of an "angle" (hook);
• Angling is a principal method of sport fishing;
• Catch and release fishing is increasingly practiced by recreational fishermen;
• Commercial fisheries also use angling methods such as longlining or trolling;
For large groups of people angling is a sport and they organize themselves in clubs and compete against each other or other clubs in accordance with specifically set rules.
For large groups of people angling is commercial activity (commercial fishing), which is fishing for profit.
For large groups of people, angling (subsistence angling/fishing) is fishing for survival.
This blog is not aimed at the above described groups of people.
The blog is aimed at specific group of people practicing Recreational fishing or fishing for pleasure.

I would like to further clarify that the blog is intended for this segment of recreational anglers, which are not so lucky to live on the coast, but equally (and some may argue, more than equally) love the ocean and the precious little time they can spend fishing - call them beginners, occasional anglers, inland based rock and surf anglers, “holiday warriors”, “vaalies” etc.

And finally, I would like to state that the blog is confined only to rock & surf angling, for edible fish using bait organisms and fish as bait.

 Fishing tackle: Rods

 Fishing tackle: Rods

 I would not even attempt to categorize and describe the variety of rock and surf fishing rods available on the market in South Africa, as almost all the major world manufacturers are well represented. On top of that, there are number of extremely experienced private rod builders, which can produce excellent custom build rods.

For the purpose of this site, we will focus on type of rock and surf rods, which allow for greater versatility in use and comfort for the traveling rock and surf angler.
Gone are the days of selection of light, medium and heavy rock and surf rods by the anglers residing in the interior of the country with the introduction of “multi tip” (five pieces) rock & surf fishing rods.

Some of the master anglers still prefer the use of one piece rods, but largely the currently produced multi tip rods are of excellent quality.
Transporting of one piece rock & surf fishing rod can be a problem for many anglers residing in the interior of the country, and for those who travel by air to the coast; this may not be a viable option.
 
In general the selection of rod will depend on the type of fishing intended and here emphasis is made on edibles fishing and very little is mentioned on targeting sharks.

In the context of this booklet we shall refer to two major groups of rock and surf rods:

• 4 : 6 OZ and;
• 6 : 8 OZ

The categorization of these two groups of roads is done by the wait of the sinkers that the rod is designed to cast. For example, the group of 4:6 OZ multi tip rods are designed to cast:

• 4 OZ sinker on the light tip;
• 5 OZ sinker on the medium tip;
• 6 OZ sinker on the heavy tip;

The group of 6: 8 OZ multi tip roads are designed to cast:

• 6 OZ sinker on the light tip;
• 7 OZ sinker on the medium tip;
• 8 OZ sinker on the

In general the different tips are used for targeting of different species of fish and used under different sea conditions:

Light tip (4:6 OZ) may be used in estuaries and gullies for spotted grunter, black tail, karanteen and bream;

Medium tip (4:6 OZ) may be used in moderate sea conditions for shad, cob, grunter, galjoen and bronze bream;

Heavy tip (4:6 OZ) may be used for big fish - leeries, large cob, and small sharks;
If fishing when strong under - currents are present obvious use of 7-8OZ wire grapnel sinker is required and that is where the use of heavy tip on (6:8OZ) rods may be utilized.

If you intend using sliding technique with none return clip, for live bait or constructed large baits – 7 - 8 OZ grapnel sinker is required as a minimum and a rod with considerable “back bone” required.

These two main groups of Rock & Surf rods are produced mainly in 14FT, which is considerate to be the optimum length for achieving of maximum casting distance. Also it is important to mention that these types of rods are designed for use of a multiplier reels and use of coffee grinders on them is very uncomfortable, as the reel holders are placed in such way so that the reel will be fitted on top of the road and it is placed very close to the end of the rod.

Different group of rock & surf rods are the spinning rods, which are predominantly available in the following sizes:

• 11FT;
• 12FT;
• 13FT
It is important to mention that most of these rods are designed to be used with a coffee grinder type of reels and are predominantly used for targeting shad. In this booklet drop shot rods and techniques are not discussed.

If one is to select and purchase suitable rock & surf fishing rod, it is worth to visit number of fishing tackle shops, as there is a considerable difference in prices offered from one fishing tackle outlet to the next.

Some examples of good quality multi tip five piece rods available on the market, without breaking the bank if acquired are:

Shimano EXAGE AX Surf - 4:6 OZ or 6:8OZ

Blue Marlin G3 – 430 – 4:6OZ or 6:8OZ (Local is lekker)

These rods are not going to cost you an arm and a leg and will do the job well; however like with everything else in our days, there are custom rods available, for a price, and there are products which will cost you twice as much as the price of the rods mentioned above. By the end of the day it is your personal choice and preference and it is very often question of available financial resources or matter of principle, of how much you are prepared to spend and/or both.

 Fishing tackle: Reels

Fishing tackle: Reels

Reels:

The type of reels currently used by anglers can be classified in two main groups (the Scarborough reel is not discussed in this article):

• The multiplying reel:

Shimano Torium 30 

Shimano Speed Master IV

This group includes a number of makes, but if one would like to start a “war” between the anglers in RSA, he does not need to still The Beautiful Helena, but simply pose the question: Which make of multiplying rock & surf reels are better:  Shimano or Daiwa? The answer to this question in South Africa is not straight forward, as many of the master anglers, have commercial interests in one or the other of the makes. I own number of reels and I use both makes extensively and have formed my opinion and preference. I’m sure that every beginner will do the same over a period of time too.

Daiwa Saltist 50

The line in this group of reels feeds directly off the drum, there is a clutch which must be disengaged for casting, and most importantly there is a brake which allows one to vary the tension on the line and will help you in fighting large fish.

The adjustment of the drag is a subject for discussion on its own and it is recommended that it is set to the 1/3 of the braking strength of the main line in use. However; important rule of thumb for beginners and occasional anglers is to tighten the drag of the reel in such way as to allow you to strike a fish without causing a “bird nest” on your reel, and also to allow a fair size fish to “take a line” from your reel if you have a run. If the fish is running and taking line from your reel “Keep cranking the knob until the fishi stops running.”

Once you gain fair amount of experience you will be able to determine the level of adjustment of your drag required by releasing the knob and pulling some line with your hand from the reel.

NB: If you are fishing with more than one rod, or making use of rod holders, always release the drag of your reel to such an extent that fish can take a line from the reel and engage the click control lever in order to produce a loud warning noise. In accordance with the prevailing sea conditions, release the drug to such an extent that you do not allow waives or the currents to pull line from your reel.

Many rods a lost due to fisherman forgetting to release their drag and leaving the rod in a rod holders. It is one of the most sickening feelings for one to see his rod and reel pop out of the rod holder and disappear in the sea at speed. Even if you leave the rod in the rod holder for few seconds in order for you to attend to something in your tackle bag or bait box, remember to release the drag of your reel.

It is important to mention that this type of reels is designed to fit on top of the rod and allow for the use of one’s thumb to control the speed of the drum while casting.
Casting with multipliers require fair amount of skill before they can be used effectively. It is not uncommon to see anglers living in Johannesburg or the interior of the Country utilizing rugby fields, dams and other open areas to improve their casting skills and prepare for the upcoming dream fishing trip to the cost. However; nothing can replace the experience gained when casting at the sea and having to do it for “real”, with bait, wading considerable distance in the sea, waives, wind etc.
A distance of 120 – 140 m with good wading will allow you to reach most of the productive spots, where fish may be feeding. A long casts are not required at all the time, but when the fish is feeding on a sand bank situated at about 120m, your ability to reach it may be the difference, between you being rewarded with a fish and the fellow fishing next to you, fowling short of the bank, catching none.

Word of caution: Before one reaches the above mentioned distances consistently when casting with a multiplier reel, it should be expected that:

• number of “bird nests” will occur on your reel and considerable amount of line wasted;

• burned thumb and/or line;
• and in some instances fairly serious injuries as deeply cut thumbs have been known to occur;

Setting of the spool tension:

Setting of the spool tension is achieved through turning the cast control cap of your reel to the right (clock wise). Achieving of maximum casting distance is a subject for discussion on its own and the good advice will be that, in the beginning of your casting carrier; it is recommended that you keep the cap almost to a fully tight position in order to avoid possible dreaded “bird nests”. This will decrease the distance of your casts, but as you build confidence and experience with your casting you may be able to release the cast control knob on you real further and achieve greater distances.

Word of caution: Do not excessively loosen the cap as water may seep inside. Always observe what experienced anglers using multipliers do, if they happen to fish in close proximity to you.

Even and under tension spooling of your main fishing line on the reel is a must if you intend to produce a good cast.

Many anglers, once they connect their leader, trace and sinker if fishing from a sandy beach before their first cast, will let a line of about 100m on the beach and then carefully spool the line on their reel, to ensure good tension, before their first cast.

Use of line lubricants, sold at tackle shops, helps a lot (rocket fuel etc.), but if your casting technique and experience are not at the required level, do not expect miracles only because you are using this type of products. Moisturizing your line with a normal drinking water (not sea/salt water), will definitely help for a smoother and further cast.
Do not give up, keep trying and you will learn to “shake hands” with the drum of your reel and your rod to perfection on almost every cast.

The experienced fisherman laughing at you, because you are getting a “bird nest” or hitting the 25m mark, was not born with the skill of casting multiplying reels. Believe me he has gone through the same frustration, pain and humiliation at one or another stage of his life. Even the most experienced anglers are not immune to a “bird nests”.

My advice will be to walk straight to him and ask him to show you how to bait, and cast you rod for you. I guarantee you that most of the experienced anglers will show you with pleasure how to do it, and will give you even more useful tips. Look, listen and memorize their advice.

Proper “loading” of your road while casting is extremely important for achieving good casting distance.

Make sure that before casting your clutch lever is released and that the STRIKE ALARM CLICK is in off position.

The spinning reel (coffee grinder):

These reels are designed to fit under the rod and there is no need for control of the speed of the drum with once thumb.
On this type of reel the drum or spool faces sideways and the line feeds from a fixed spool through a “bale arm”.

Generally they are much easier to cast with, as one just opens the “bale arm” and casts. It is virtually impossible the dreaded “bird nests” to occur. These types of reels are extremely popular amongst occasional anglers and very often are used for shad fishing.

As it is the case with the multiplier reels there is number of manufactures competing for share of the market in South Africa.

Fishing tackle: Line 

Fishing line:

Today anglers in South Africa have variety of choice between many different types of good quality fishing lines.

However; some representatives of the fishing line producers claim that, the critical factor determining the performance quality of a line is its diameter and its breaking strain and the relationship between the two. The stronger a line is for its diameter the better, and that there are two types of deceptions existing in the industry:

• Firstly simple exaggeration of breaking strain where companies claim considerably higher performance that is actually true in reality;

• And secondly.  Stepping of diameter where companies supply a thicker line than stated to increase the breaking strain.

International Game Fishing Association (IGFA) Rated Monofilament Line:

Examples of IGFA rated lines are:

• Double X;
• Sufix;
• Ande and Moi-Moi;

These mono filament or co-polymer fishing lines rated by IGFA have to brake on or below its specified kilogram or pound test rating printed on the label. These types of lines are suitable for use on both multiplier and fixed spool reels.

One of the most popular and used fishing lines amongst anglers for fishing from sandy beaches in South Africa is Double X and specifically the premium quality Platinum range, which offers extremely high braking strength for the diameter of line used.
In category of its own I would like to place T line, for the simple reason that it is manufactured in South Africa. The manufacturer is situated in Summerset West.

Nylon Mono filament Line: 

Mono is a Greek word meaning single. In fishing line terminology that means a single strand of line and has become known as nylon fishing line.

Most entry level fishing line is made of mono filament characterized by low cost and relative strength. Premium grade nylon mono filament line receives more quality control attention, more additives and more attention in the process than normal mono filament line, therefore it is more costly. This type of fishing line can be used on all types of fishing reels.

Drawback for this type of line is that it can absorb water resulting in loose knots, it sensitivity can decrease when it is wet.  With time mono filament degrades and can weaken when exposed to heat and sunlight. If it is stored on a spool for a very long time, it may come off the fishing reel in coils or loops. For this reason it is advisable that mono filament line is changed on regular intervals to prevent such degradation.

The Effects of Prolonged Submersion in Water:

Nylon fishing line absorbs water and becomes significantly softer and more flexible. While exposure to water absorption softens nylon mono filament, this is usually preferable in most situations as high levels of water absorption do have a detrimental effect on strength. Both linear and knot strength can be reduced by anything up to 15 per cent after submersion in water for as little as four hours.
After use, mono will return to its equilibrium point after a number of days or weeks, depending on the diameter. A point to note is that fluorocarbon coating waterproofs the line and prevents this problem.

Humidity
Humid conditions at or above 60 per cent are preferable when storing mono filament for longer than a few weeks as this maintains the correct level of softness in the line.

Temperature

Line is best stored between 15 and 25°C. Normal ambient extremes of cold and heat do not significantly affect breaking strength until approaching the melting point of the material. However; a cold line is less flexible, a warmer line more supple.

Natural Light

Nylon is not U. V. stable. In other words the molecular structure within a line will breakdown during prolonged periods of exposure to sunlight. Line should always be stored out of direct sunlight and preferably away from any indirect daylight if being stored for prolonged periods. Do not store your line in green houses or in sheds on a shelf under the window!


Advantage and disadvantage at one and the same time for this type line is its ability to stretch under pressure up to 30%. When line is stretched its strength is weakened, it also allows for extra reaction time when a fish runs. This extra reaction time can provide the angler with the few seconds needed to make the necessary adjustments before a hooked fish is able to break the line. There are many newer lines available on the market, but monofilament line is still one of the best.

Co-polymer Monofilaments:
 
This fairly recent line innovation is a variation of traditional monofilament, Co-polymer resins also stretches under pressure, but they offer greater flexibility and that allows for greater casting ease and accuracy. There are generally more abrasion resistant than ordinary monofilament lines and knot strength is much better. Double X and is typical example of co-polymer monofilament.

Multifilament Line of Braid:

This type of line is made up of a type of micro-polyethylene Dyneema and Spectra Fiber, an extremely thin fiber for its super strength. These fiber strands measured in weight are 10 times stronger than steel fibers. Multifilament (Braid) may be used on both types fishing reels, multiplier or fixed spool reels. Due to its thin diameter it is ideal for use as a backing line on multiplier reels. Many anglers prefer to fill their multiplier reels with Multifilament line (Braid) and only use about 160m of Co-Polymer Monofilament as a “top shot”, for the following reasons:
• The braid allows for much bigger capacity of line to be fitted on the multiplier reel, due to its thin diameter and without compromising in strength;
• The braid remains compact on the multiplier spool at all time and does not require such a frequent change as it does not absorb water and it is UV ray resistant;
• The disadvantage of casting with braid, if not careful, is that it can severely cut you finger - this is counteracted by adding the “top shot” of Co –Polymer Monofilament line, which is not so expensive and can be replaced (only approximately 160m) often, in this way the use of the extremely expensive Braid (some times quadruple the cost of monofilament) can be relatively justified;
Tipical sample of a Spectra Fiber super line is PowerPro and due to its popularity we will focus on Using PowerPro:
 
Unlike monofilament, PowerPro will not stretch on the reel and cling to the barrel. This can result in line sliding around the barrel, which can seem like a problem with your drag mechanism. Rest assured, your equipment is fine. To avoid slippage, attach PowerPro to your spool using one of these methods:
1. If your reel has a hole or knob on the barrel, use it.
2. Leave at least 5 to 10 yards of monofilament on the reel (enough to cover the bottom of the spool) before attaching PowerPro with a Uni to Uni splice.
3. Put a piece of compressible tape on the barrel before attaching PowerPro.
Setting the Hook

Anglers on Saturday morning TV shows often set the hook in bass like Samurai warriors beheading the enemy. This may be a fine technique with monofilament line, but PowerPro doesn't require such a violent motion. When you get a strike, relax; a gentle snap of your wrist will set the hook. Because PowerPro doesn't stretch like nylon lines, you won't get that rubber-band effect. Every inch you move your rod tip equals an inch of movement at the lure.

Setting your drag

PowerPro lines are so small for their strength that you may be tempted to set your drag higher than normal, but remember, your rod or reel may not be designed to handle the same unbelievable loads as your line. To make full use of PowerPro's amazing sensitivity without risking damage to your equipment, try one of the following tips:
1. Set your drag to match the weakest component in your tackle system.
2. Set your drag to match the size of mono line you would normally use.
3. When using ultralight equipment or line (10- or 20-lb. test) set your drag to no more than 1/3 of the line's rated strength. You can check the drag with a fish scale.
At lower drag settings, a little extra line may pay out at the hookset, compensating for PowerPro's lack of stretch.

Cutting PowerPro

PowerPro is extremely strong, and nail clippers won't cut it. We recommend sharp scissors such as Fiskars for kids, which are inexpensive, easy to find, and have blunt ends to protect your pockets.

Retie your line

Although PowerPro is extremely strong, it isn't indestructible. If the line starts to look frayed, especially after fishing around structure, it's probably time to cut off the worn section and retie. This way your line will always perform at rated strength.
Repack your line
If your line starts to feel soft or mushy on the reel, especially when fishing with light baits, you should repack your reel. Make an extra long cast or let the line out behind your boat, then reel it in while holding the line taut with your fingers. This will improve casting performance and keep the line from "digging in" after a solid strike.
Using a Mono filament Leader

Attaching a mono filament leader to your PowerPro line may prove useful in the following situations:
1. When bait or jig fishing requires extra finesse, especially in clear water, use a 3-foot mono filament leader to cut down on line visibility.
2. When fishing for species that strike hard and fast, use a mono filament shock tippet. For close-in situations such as bait fishing, try a 3- to 10-foot tippet. For big game applications, you may want to use up to 100 yards or more.
CAUTION:
PowerPro is remarkably thin and strong. To avoid injury, never wrap it around your fingers or hands. If you need to break off the line, wrap it around a solid object and pull.

Fishing tackle: Hooks

Hooks:

There are two main groups of hooks that are currently used for rock and surf fishing:

•    Circle Hooks;
•    “J “ Hooks and;

Circle hooks were introduced in South Africa recently, in the last 3-4 years and quickly are becoming very popular amongst anglers. They are not a new technological invention, as the Polynesian circle hook has been the most efficient hooking device known to early man.

It is a fact that the mortality of released circle hooked fish is a significant fraction of that of released “J” hooked fish. The fact is, circle hooks greatly reduce mortality of circle hooked released fished, and it is time we all learn how to fish with them.

The most important thing you need to know about circle hook mechanics is that it is imperative that the fish is GOING AWAY from you when you set the hook. Unlike a “J” hook, the circle hook is not set by striking on the rod with force.

When a fish has taken your bait, and it swims away from you, THEN AND ONLY THEN, come tight for the hook set. Do not strike!!!

Each species has it's own particular feeding behaviors, and some lend themselves well to high circle hook-up ratios by their very nature.

When the fish start GOING AWAY FROM YOU ON THE STRIKE.

 You simply:

•    point the rod tip in their direction;
•    let a second or two worth of line peel from your reel;
•    lock it in gear;
•    and let the line come tight until the fish pulls drag;

The rounded bend design at the tip of a circle hook, doesn’t allow it to snag a gill arch or become engorged in the gut. Instead, as it exits the mouth, it efficiently finds the corner of the fish’s mouth and immediately punctures through the soft tissue connecting the maxilla bone to the jaws. The fish isn’t hurt by having a hook lodged in its throat as with a “J” hook, and the circle hooks bend will not allow the hook to back out. A fish securely hooked on a circle hook is rarely lost during the fight. Always "Snell" your circle hook!